India, 2024

8 am. We are on the Gatimaan Express train at Nizamuddin railway station in New Delhi, awaiting the departure for Agra. We arrived from Heathrow on Sunday (31st) to New Delhi on Virgin Atlantic. We paid a bit extra for Premium Economy and it was definitely worth it: comfortable seats, generous legroom, friendly service and excellent vegan meals. After the 9-hour overnight flight, we transferred without any problems to our hotel, the Crowne Plaza Okhla in South Delhi. We had an afternoon swim, a nap, drinks with the other 20 or so people on the tour, and dinner.

The tour is a package by Great Rail Journeys, taking in Highlights of India and the Golden Triangle. It is our treat to celebrate our 10th anniversary, and is [name]’s first visit to India. The tour began properly yesterday, with an excursion around Old Delhi, starting at the Jama Masjid (the Mosque of Friday), built from 1644 to 1658 during the reign of Shahjahan, and now the second largest mosque on the Indian subcontinent. During major celebrations like Eid, the courtyard can accommodate 25,000 people. Next, we took a pedal rickshaw ride through the narrow alleyways of Old Delhi, bustling with traders, recalling scenes from Shantaram (albeit that was set in Mumbai).

We also visited the cremation site, temporary home and assassination site of Mahatma Gandhi. The memorial home sketched out his life, including his time as a lawyer in South Africa and the UK. It is clear how these experiences of fighting for justice shaped his philosophy and peaceful resistance approach, which became so effective in leading the independence movement in India. I remember reading his autobiography in my 20s and being inspired. We also visited a Kashmir carpet store and Humayun’s Tomb, built around 1570 by the widow of the second Mughal Emperor and providing a template for the Taj Mahal that was built later.

The history of the city dates back around 5,000 years, with evidence of over 20 settlements having been built and destroyed over that period. The city that we recognise as Old Delhi was founded by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639 as Shahjahanabad. In fact, the Mughals were misidentified as coming from Mongolia, whereas they were from Uzbekistan. Delhi remained the capital of the Mughal Empire until its fall in 1857, when the British Raj took over. The building of New Delhi began in 1911 and was inaugurated in 1931.

9.30 am. I am seated next to the pool in the leafy garden of the Ranthambhore Regency. The temperature is 29C, although it feels cooler in the shade. We arrived yesterday on a train from Bharatpur to Sawai Madhopur, which took about 2.5 hours. The two train journeys have been surprisingly comfortable and efficient, albeit that the Bharatpur platform was still under construction, or rather mid-upgrade. The main difference, as compared with trains in Europe, is the regular parade of stewards up and down the aisle selling tea, soft drinks, snacks and meals.

In the morning, ahead of our train trip, we visited a wholesaler of marble furniture and crafts, all exquisitely inlaid with semi-precious stones. We bought a beautiful coffee table and coasters with floral designs, and a jewellery box. The artistry and craftsmanship is truly remarkable. We then visited the Fatehpur Sikri, a red sandstone complex built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar in the 16th century. It is a cautionary tale of the impacts of climate, since it was abandoned after about 15 years when the water ran out.

The previous day, after taking the train from New Delhi to Agra, we visited Agra fort, the seat of power for three generations of Mughal Emperors until 1638. And then we visited the Taj Mahal, the iconic token of love built by the emperor Shah Jahan between 1632 and 1643 as a tomb for his late wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The gleaming white marble domes and minarets, the symmetrical design and the green gardens and blue reflective pools give the complex a dream-like quality.

After the obligatory photo-taking and walk around and within the gigantic mausoleum ([name] was surprised that it was basically an empty building, unused except for housing two tombs – Shah Jahan himself was later buried there beside her), we found a quiet bench beneath some shady trees, removed our shoes, and soaked in the tranquil atmosphere, with green parrots squawking and striped squirrels darting around. Apparently 20,000 artisans worked on the Taj Mahal, with much of the Mughal’s wealth coming from securing and taxing the spice trade routes through India. While one cannot but be in awe of such displays of splendour, I find myself wishing to connect with India’s more ancient, pre-Mughal history and culture.