Albania, 2016

I am in a cosy 3-bed room, looking out on a gathering mist over pine-forested slopes. We are in a wooden cabin (The Alpine Hotel) in the tiny remote village of Lepushe, which is in the Malcia e Mathe (The Great Highlands) of Albania. Earlier we stopped for a coffee at a café about a kilometre up the hill and watched storm clouds gathering over the surrounding peaks. To add to the drama of this Tolkienesque landscape, thunder and lightning drew steadily nearer and we had just returned to the car when it began to rain.

By the time we got down to the cabin in the valley, the rain had become a deluge. After changing out of wet clothes, we enjoyed a cup of mountain tea with our host, [name], before snuggling under our duvets to warm up and have a nap. We were awoken by booming claps of thunder echoing around the valley, driving rain and pelting hail stones. Once the storm eased, a full rainbow stretched across the valley, making the magic complete.

It’s hard to believe that just a few hours ago we were baking in 35 degree C sun and enjoying blissful relief in a mountain rock pool near Selcë. All morning we had been driving through the spectacular Canyone i Cemit, with its endless vaulted peaks, sheer cliffs and plunging valleys.

Yesterday, we began our 3-musketeers, 3-countries in 3-days excursion in Peja, driving to the ferry at Fierze, which took us down Lake Komani through amazing landscapes. Over 2 hours later, we continued our journey on land, stopping for lunch at the eco-restaurant, Mrizi i Zanave, before heading for the beach at Rrana e Hedhur.

By evening, we had driven on to Shkodër, which is an attractive city with extensive pedestrianised areas, street cafes and Italian style architecture. We had a scrumptious dinner in the courtyard at Tradita Geg dhe Toske, which also serves as a museum for cultural artefacts and traditional clothing from Albania’s past.