The Tsitsikamma coast

South Africa: Swellendam. In the afternoon, we drove across to Bontebok National Park, where we swam in the river. The water was warm and the scenery idyllic. We stopped off at Rolendale café on the way home for some supersized carrot cake and super-sweetened cheese cake, which we all regretted almost immediately. Yesterday, we made a 7.15 am start up the coast, stopping for breakfast at Delfino’s restaurant in Mossel Bay, which has beautiful ocean views. Lunch was at Moby Dick’s in Plettenberg Bay, after a swim and some body surfing in the waves. We arrived at Tsitsikamma National Park after a brief stop at the bridge to watch the bungee jumpers. Our cabin overlooks the waves crashing dramatically against the rocks, so we went to sleep with the ocean roaring pleasantly in our ears.

Today, we woke early with the light and set off for the suspension bridge across Storms River Mouth. It was a beautiful walk along the coast and through the forest. From the bridge, we watched cormorants diving and spreading their wings to dry. After a soda-float at the restaurant (while [name] dipped in the sea), we came back to the chalet for lunch and a rest. Then we walked in the opposite direction along the coastal track which marks the start of the Otter Trail. Mom and Dad (in sandals and flip-flops) came with us part way and then turned back when the path took us across rocky scree.

[Name] and I carried on, passing a cave and arriving after 3 kms at a waterfall with a refreshing pool. After our strenuous trek, the swim was a welcome respite. The scenery en route is spectacular, with huge waves crashing against rocky shores and steep slopes covered in indigenous forest, providing shade. On one pebble beach, there were dozens of stone cairn sculptures, seemingly made by passers by. After we got back to our cabin, we had a quick swim in the pool to cool down and clean up, before settling in for supper (baked potatoes), followed by Amarula coffee. Tonight, we will once again drift off to the crash and boom of waves and the chirp of crickets. This spot along the Tsitsikamma coast is surely one of the most spectacular on this Earth.