From doing to being

    Wildlife3 October 2011

    Ecuador: Galápagos. A day of sun, surf & snorkelling off one of the newest Galapagos islands. Climbed my 1st volcano & saw my 1st sting ray. Also crabs & iguanas.

    Today’s excursion began with a 1 hour bus ride across the island and then a 2.5 hour boat trip out to Bartolome Island, where we climbed to the top of the volcano and then snorkelled in the bay. The island is entirely volcanic and one of Galapagos’s newest (approximately 1 million years old, versus 5 million for the rest of the archipelago). It is like peering through a tear in the fabric of time, back to the beginning of creation. There are just a few plant species that have managed to gain a foothold on what is otherwise a barren landscape of contorted lava rock (black and rust-coloured) and lava ash. The snorkelling was breathtakingly beautiful and I was lucky enough to see a large school of bright yellow-tailed fish, as well as a sting ray (it is so big! Maybe 1.5 metres across). I also saw small iguanas and exquisite bright red crabs. We had occasional company from frigate birds, sea lions and penguins alongside the boat, and were treated to boobies divebombing for fish. All in all, an exciting and relaxing day, worth every bit of the sunburn that I am now suffering with.

    Diary entry, 3 October 2011

    Today was perhaps one of the most blissful of my life. In the morning, I went to Tortuga Bay and spent a few hours sitting on the volcanic rocks overlooking the lagoon, flanked on both sides by marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies. My goal was to photograph the boobies in flight, but ‘doing’ soon dissolved into ‘being’ – a feeling of at-one-ness with nature and contentment in the moment.

    En route – a 45 minute walk along the beach – I encountered colonies of marine iguanas, and managed to snap a pelican as it launched to capture a fish in the shallows. I also spotted a white finned reef shark gliding past in the turquoise water, and saw (for the first time) crabs scuttling along the surface of the water between rocks about one metre apart.

    I wouldn’t have believed it possible for my day to get any better. However, as I took a water taxi to a nearby beach in the afternoon, I chanced to meet Jacqueline de Roy. Since she is 85 and had several heavy bags, I offered to help carry these to her home nearby. She invited me in and we got talking. What a fascinating life she has had.

    Diary entry, 4 October 2011

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